FAR EAST MANUFACTURING has added a new NAVY color to its “UTILITY PANT.”
The previously released OLIVE DRAB version is still available, so the model can now be selected in two colors: NAVY and OLIVE DRAB.
Although the construction is the same, the overall impression changes significantly depending on the color.
OLIVE DRAB carries the classic military look, while NAVY keeps the rugged character of the garment but gives it a slightly calmer appearance.
It also works naturally with denim, leather jackets, sweatshirts, and other everyday pieces, making it easy to incorporate into a wide range of wardrobes.
FAR EAST MANUFACTURING, commonly known as FEM, was newly produced by Yoshiyuki Hayashi of RESOLUTE in 2023.
While RESOLUTE is centered around jeans, FEM approaches clothing from a different direction, and from the 2026SS season began developing a new military line.
The UTILITY PANT is based on the utility trousers used by the U.S. military from the 1940s through the 1970s.
In Japan, this style is also widely known as the “Baker Pant,” but FEM specifically looked to examples from around the mid-1960s.
The rise is deep, and the silhouette is a relaxed straight fit.
Rather than refining the shape too much, FEM keeps the balanced proportions and practical feel associated with period military trousers.
One of the key features of this UTILITY PANT is the fabric.
FEM uses an original 100% cotton back satin developed specifically for the line.
The fabric has a noticeable horizontal slub character, giving the surface an irregular, textured appearance reminiscent of vintage military clothing.
The back satin is then dyed with vat dye.
It already has plenty of character when new, but the real appeal of this fabric begins after it is worn.
Wear it, wash it, and wear it again.
Over time, the fabric gradually softens, the color begins to fade, and areas around the seams and pockets develop natural wear and contrast.
The new NAVY color is particularly interesting because the deep tone will gradually fade and develop a completely different expression from when it is new.
OLIVE DRAB also changes with wear, developing the dry, worn-in tone associated with classic military clothing.
The garment is not truly finished when it is purchased. The time spent wearing it gradually becomes visible in the fabric itself.
That aspect also feels very much in keeping with FEM, a brand produced by Hayashi, who has spent many years working with denim and clothing that becomes better through wear.
NAVY and OLIVE DRAB.
Placed side by side, the difference in character between the two colors becomes clear.
For the most traditional military look, OLIVE DRAB is the natural choice.
For something a little more subdued and easy to work into an everyday wardrobe, NAVY offers a different approach.
Because both colors use the same back satin fabric, it is also interesting to see how each one develops in a different way over time.
The FEM UTILITY SHIRT introduced previously is made from the same fabric as the UTILITY PANT.
Of course, the shirt and trousers do not have to be worn together.
Both pieces work very well on their own, but because they share the same fabric, they can also be combined as a matching military-inspired outfit.
A simple white T-shirt underneath works well when wearing the two pieces together, while the UTILITY SHIRT can also be worn more like a light jacket and paired with leather shoes or boots.
Rather than thinking of it as a conventional tailored “set-up,” the combination feels more natural when approached as matching workwear or military clothing made from the same fabric.
That relaxed way of wearing the pieces suits this series very well.
Looking at Hayashi’s own styling, what stands out is how naturally he incorporates military clothing into everyday outfits without making it feel overly styled.
The OLIVE DRAB version creates a different impression from NAVY and is also worth referring to when considering how to wear the trousers.
The military details and background remain clearly present, but the clothes still fit naturally into a modern wardrobe.
That balance is one of the most appealing aspects of FEM’s military line.
Another important feature of the UTILITY PANT is the availability of multiple inseam lengths, much like original military trousers.
The trousers are available in L29, L31, and L33, allowing customers to select not only the waist size but also the inseam that best suits their body shape and preferred balance.
For overseas customers in particular, being able to choose both waist and inseam is a major advantage of this model.
Rather than simply reproducing a vintage U.S. military pant, FEM develops its own fabric and adjusts the balance so that the garment works naturally as modern clothing.
From there, the wearer continues the process by wearing the trousers, washing them, and allowing them to develop over time.
The FAR EAST MANUFACTURING UTILITY PANT is a good example of what makes Japanese-made military clothing so interesting.
The newly added NAVY.
And the continuing OLIVE DRAB.
Whichever color you choose, part of the enjoyment is imagining how the fabric will look after years of wear.
The FAR EAST MANUFACTURING “UTILITY PANT” NAVY featured in this article is available here.
View UTILITY PANT NAVY product details and current availability
The UTILITY PANT OLIVE DRAB is also still available.
View UTILITY PANT OLIVE DRAB product details and current availability